Replacing the Heater Matrix on the Defender

Hi all well my heater Matrix split on top and I searched on the net, prices ranged from $285-00 to $80-00 including shipping from the UK. DLS UK gave the best deal, and as I have purchased parts from them before, so 10 days after I had ordered the part it arrived.

The first thing was to get all of my tools together



you require:-



10mm socket

9 inch 1/4 drive extention

1/4 ratchet

Screw drivers

7mm spanner

pointed nose pliers

10 mm spanners

13mm spanner

torch (Very handy)



Remove the split pin on the bonnet stay and lift the bonnet fully open, tie it up to be safe.

Now remove the water washer bottle held in by 2 10mm nuts and then remove the frame which retains the bottle to the wing.

Once this has been done we can have better access to the heater box.


Remove the panel from the under dash aircon unit, this consisted of two 10mm bolts and 4 screws, 3 in the floor and one on the bulkhead bracket

Use the 7mm spanner and the pointed nose pliers to remove the cables and clips.

The grill covering the blower inlet on the top of the left wing, remove the screws and remove the grill, then there are 2 cross headed screws retaining the first stage of the air blower intake.

Remove the piping to allow movement of the blower part when we come to remove it.

When I took mine out the water drainage valve was blocked and had caused the fan motor to flood and swim in water

the swimming motor

once removed we can now remove the water pipes and start removing the retaing bolts.



I then placed a spanner on the lower two nuts from within the engine bay on the heater box jamming it against the box, and taped a 10mm socket and with using a torch aligned the socket onto thebolt and started to undo them, they came out really easily.

the lower nuts

Once out then there are two nuts on the upper part of the heater box, behind the heater matrix.

These are both 13mm and came out easily. the next thing was to disconnect the wire to the blower box.



The next thing is to wiggle the unit with the fan until your are able to remove it from the engine bay. I hade to slightly bend an Aircon pipe.

The next thing to do is top strip the unit down. The Matrix is retained by screws and brackets at the top and bottom.

remove the lower bracket which is held on by 3 10mm nuts

Once removed remove all of the screws holding the matrix retaing brackets and remove plates. Here is the bottom.

Pull the matrix from the heater box

Then here we check that the new part is correct

Due to my motor had been flooded I removed it to let it dry and cleaned the box and motor housing and put a fresh coat of paint on it.

The New Matrix did not come with the rubber pads on the bottom, so I removed them from the old matrix and glued them on.

Then slide the matrix back into the heater box and refit the retaining plates on the top and bottom.

Fit the lower bracket

Check the Bulkhead for rust and treat

Wiggle the heater box back into place and first of all. align the lower bracket holes and with the taped socket, push the bolts from the inside using the torch, and the light coming from the engine bay, then pack into position and go to the engine bay, place the nuts and washers on and then jam the spanner again and tighten with the ratchet.



Once these are tight refit the upper bolts making sure you don't jam the wire inbetween the heater box and the bulkhead.

Re connect the cables ensuring they operate correctly.

Once fitted join the wiring connector and then fill the heater matrix using the water hose and a can until it is full, this will prevent an air lock.



Once full connect the hoses.



Refit the under wing pipe ensuring the small valve is clear of gunk.

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refit the screws and fit the wing grill. then refit the water washer bottle bracket and then the water bottle. Then refit the air con cover in the passenger footwell.

Stand back and check your work

Tyres

My tyres were starting to show the end of there life, wearing on one side as where I live, there are lots of roundabouts, so currently my vehicle has 275/65/16 BF Goodrich all terrain tyres. These have done a lot of K's, 40,000 with myself, and whatever the previous owner got out of them.

BFG all terrains were $321-00, however Tyre Busters at Kunda Park, Qld were offering General AT2 a similar pattern to the BFG's for $250-0.

Heres the BFG al terrains

And now the General AT2

I did the research and have a good name, so i went for them.

two tyres later, and all of the wheel alignments done, I was now legal and back on the road.

Replacing the Steering Box drop arm on the Defender

Hi all,

well I had in the past used a kit to change the lower ball joint on the Drop arm, however when i removed the top shim, I damaged the inside, which caused the new shim to crack, so I bought a whole arm off ebay which cost $66-00 delivered. A little bit more than the kit itself. Link below.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220564241905&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1182

First of all I went to my local trade tools supplier and bought a good puller for just under $24-00.

Then you'll need some other tools, a large socket set, or a 32mm spanner to remove the large drop arm nut and a 19mm to remove the ball joint nut, however I also had to have a 22mm for the new ball joint nut. A chisel to bend the locking washer, a ball joint separator, a hammer, pliers a rag.

Once you have these it takes about ten minutes to change. I loosened the large nut. but don't remove it fully, as this prevents it from dropping.

Once you have done that, remove the ball joint with the 19mm and the separator

Once this is done, place the puller on the drop arm and wind up until it pulls the drop arm off the splines of the steering box.

Now remove the nut and the arm comes off very easily.

Now we can compare the new and old drop arms. Look inside the spline part of the drop arm and the shaft from the steering box, you will see there is a wide spline to ensure you put the arm on correctly, as shown.

Once lined up, push the drop arm on by hand and place the locking washer and nut then tighten with the socket.

Once tightened to the desired torque, bend the locking washer.

Then place the drag link on and tighten the nut placing the split pin in to prevent the nut becoming loose.

All done and check the drop arm and get someone in the vehicle with the engine running and turn the steering side to side. Once checks are done, it's good to go and it only took me ten minutes.